Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Waldkappel and Harmutsachsen

Rolf meets us in Kassel…never stops offering stories…about everyone and every place…

He collects stories the way he collects music from South India…the Grimm Brothers come from Kassel…museum there…Rosenzweig comes from there…600 books from Rabbi Prager in the library…the Prince of Kassel’s Castle…museum…children dressed

Up like princesses and princes…

Drive to Waldkappel…lots of talk..

The scenery is perfect European countryside

Waldkappel and 15 other small villages all add up to less than 5000

Parsonage across from church..built 1521…though tower was finished in late 14th century

St Georges…then Lutheran..becasue the prince said so.

Iris…takes care of her own 3 small churches

Rolf picked up the Jews of Harmutsachsen when another pastor died.

Only one Jewish family ever in Waldkappel but many in Harmutsachsen and other small towns…Jewish cemeteries seem to be literally everywhere…

Next day in Sorna, high school named after German martyr, Adam Von Trott… diplomat who worked with Bonhoeffer…met with more than 100 students 10-12th maybe even 13th. Amazing questions…how do you feel about visiting us? How do you feel about visiting Auschwitz? Students have never met a Jew…a couple thought they may have seen a Jew//Hassid in an airport???

How do you maintain memories of a community that are no longer living…even though there is a Jewish cemetery literally in front of the door to enter the school…just a few graves, the old cemetery up the hill in the forest…some students did not realize it was a Jewish cemetery…others had never thought about it…but school also has not done anything to make those names apart of their identity…why are Jews buried there when there are NO Jews???

Like Breisach and Irhrigen…communities caring for Jewish cemeteries and Jewish homes and Jewish “ruins”…with no Jews…oxymoronic or a significant new and essential hermeneutic…understanding Jews…with no Jews…ideas..theories…no praxis?

How do you help such communities? How do you///what do you teach…provide them

A theme of the two months…teaching about and FOR Jews where there are NO Jews..

Being the first or ONLY Jew ever to meet..talk…teach…represent???

DEAD JEWS or NO JEWS leaves a distinct impression so that teaching about or explaining about requires more than usual…different than SCSU where there are far more than I have ever realized who like the Germans do not know nor imagine Jews..

With less than 5000 Jews in India…and NO Jews in the villages and towns of Waldkappel and Harmutsachsen…Rotenberg…Sorna..etc..how does one teach in a vacuum? The purpose of the teaching…the goal…how do measure results…?

Creating individual museums…mikvehs…synagogues…gedenken buchen??? Are we doing the work of the Leibeskind museum in the villages…or the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe…for Sarah, social work student…Anne student for the ministry in Hamburg???

Seeing the Jewish homes in Harmutsachsen…like in Breisach…history that makes Jews live…listening to Walter Holstein…bringing a broken tea cup to the Jewish store for 5 cents worth of mustard!!! His smile..and animation in telling the stories…Hammershalg’s store…Ilse Hammershag whose legs were destroyed…who talked to Walter from the window…Jews WHOSE LIVES ARE STILL VIVID IN THE MEMORIES OF GERMANS…Walter whose friend wrote him that he saw Heinz Lorge in Riga>?? Or Kassel>?? And as member of the Wehrmacht gave him a loaf of bread…

How does one remember a class mate…photo from 1933…Heinz…whose home you walked past every day…and then they are GONE….what is the burden of that memory??

Is Walter Holstein indifferent…does he want to repent…for what…to whom…do Jews have an obligation…an opportunity to access those memories has healing…DO NOT FORGET…..BUT FORGIVE??? To whom…from whom Rolf??Iris?Gunther???Louise Jakob?

Louisa Jakob…101..blind…but more alive and sees more than ANYBODY!!

RUDE TO HER FELLOW OLD FOLKS????

Reads in brail and pissed off that books are now limited…novels???in German?

Looked out the window on Nov 9 1938 after hearing the thugs who were attacking Max Hammerschalg…go inside..we did not come to hurt you…she HEARD THE VOICES AND KNEW WHO THEY WERE…she is tough…maybe the TOUGHEST EVER!!!

She grew up with the Jews…is her memory of their lives..their living..more important than the Berlin Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe????

Spielberg testimonies of the survivors…yes, obviously….but of the witnesses???

Should we ask that Spielberg also tape…video…Louise??? Walter??? If only the survivors..then will we be able to hear the witnesses who lived with and among…

How do we help Rolf…how do we leave resources for Sarah and Anne??

We are leaving this wonderful new friend and the many people we never expected to meet and know we will be coming back...to fill the empty and abandoned synagogue of Harmutsachsen.

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